Regency Fashion ~ November 1813

Two gowns are pictured together for this month.

The Morning Dress is described as follows:

 round dress, of jacconet muslin made up to the throat and buttoned down the back, which is still broader than they were worn last month; the waist is also a little, but it is a very little shorter than they were then. Long sleeve, which falls much off the shoulder; it is very large and loose and fastens tightly at the wrists by a letting in of lace; the sleeve descends almost to the fingers and is edged with lace The trimming of this dress is extremely elegant a very broad flounce of the same materials as the dress, is surmounted by a richly embroidery in coloured silks, and a sligh border, the pattern a wave, goes round it at bottom.  Treble ruff of pointed lace.  Hair cropped behind, and dressed in loose full curls in front.  Ear-rings of dead gold in shape of a heart; they are very small.  Slippers of slate-coloured kid made much higher round the instep than they have been worn for some time, and trimmed with a ribband to correspond.

The Dinner Dress is a frock of Devonshire brown crape, made to display the back, bosom, and shoulders as much as possible.  This exquisitely simple and becoming dress leaves us little to describe: in the form of the frock there is nothing new, but the trimming, which is of white satin is very novel and tasteful.  It is laid on in folds, which are separated into small compartments by strings of real pearls. The sleeve, which is of white satin corresponds with the flounce.  Hair partly twisted up behind, partly descending in loose ringlets on the back of the neck; the forehead shaded by a few loose and beautiful ringlets; a wreath of half-blown roses is put on rather to one side, and the whole air of the head is as youthful as possible. Pearl necklace, earrings and bracelets. White kid slippers with silver rosettes. A rich scarf of lemon colour shot with lilac is occasionally thrown over the shoulders; and a ridicule with silver clasps and tassels, finishes the dress.

We often have questions about the fastenings of gowns. Laces or buttons. The morning gown is buttoned down the back, so there we have it at least for this particular year.   I can't say I'm a fan of brown for a dinner dress, or of the novel trimming, but I was interested to see that it is shown as above the ankle.

Until next time

Regency Houses - Saltram Continued

Here is another look at the inner workings of the English Country House. This time it is upstairs, but not the upstairs of the family or guests.

Hmm. I wonder what this is, says husband.

Don't touch it, say I nervously.

Does he listen?

Of course not.



And this is what we found inside.

Now this little trapdoor is in the windowsill at the top of the servants stairs leading up to the first floor (or the 2nd Floor as we say in North America.

Any guesses?

Or are you one of those clever people who already know what this is.

Clue.  It is something to make the servants' lives easier, so we have to like it. The answers and more next time.

I know I'm a tease. So I will offer a prize this time. A draw from all those who comment for a book of your choice from the Gilvry Series-  books 1 or 2.

Until next time Happy Rambles.

Falling For the Highland Rogue Goodreads Giveaway

It's always fun to have a book coming out, it means I can do a Goodreads Giveaway. You have to enter if you want to win, so click on the link. And good luck.

Goodreads Book Giveaway

Falling For The Highland Rogue

by Ann Lethbridge

Giveaway ends November 18, 2013.
See the giveaway details at Goodreads.

Enter to win

Until next time, Happy Rambles

Regency Houses - Saltram's Jane Austen Connection

The link to Jane Austen.

One of the interesting things on display at Saltram are
of course the pictures which often show ladies and gentlemen of our Regency era.

And here we have a Regency gown on display.This one is identified as c1800 and the train was added later.

At Salram I was also fascinated to discover a connect between The Countess of Morely, Frances Talbot and Jane Austen.  On December 27, 1815 the countess writes to Jane Austen telling her " I have been anxiously awaiting "Emma" and am infinitely obliged to your for your kind recollection of me.

I assume this means that Jane sent her a copy.

She goes on to say that "I am already become intimate with the Woodhouse family and feel they will not amuse me or interest me less than the Bennets, Bertrams and Norrises and all their admirable predecessors. I can give them no higher praise."

Clearly a fan.

There is also a transcript of Jane's reply. "Accept my thanks for the honour of your note and your kind dispostion in favour of Emma. In my present state of doubt as to her reception in the world it is particularly gratifying to me to receive so early an assurance of your Ladyship's approbation."

It seems that a writer's self doubt afflicts us all, even the great Jane Austen.

There are a few more things to see of interest at Saltram, so until next time, Happy Rambles.

 

Regency Fashion ~ October 1813

This is the second gown for October, and also a Vauxhall Vittoria Fete Dress.

I can only assume that these were dresses which where worn or ordered for the event, but of course only available in the magazine after the fact. Sadly we do not know who it was who wore the dress.

This second gown is not so very different from the first, which you would have found in my post earlier this month.  It is described as follows:

A plain white lace frock over a white sarsnet petticoat; the sleeve, which is halfway down the arm, is also composed of lace, and the form of it is extremely novel.  The top is very full and drawn in by a string of pearls, the bottom part is composed of three rows of narrow letting-in, each row edged with pearl. Hair curled in loose and luxuriant ringlets in front, turned up behind a-la-Grecque as tightly as possible. Head-dress, diamonds and the Prince's plume of ostrich feathers. Diamond necklace, bracelets and ear-rings. A slight gold chain of elegant workmanship, to which an eye-glass is suspended, is put round the neck and brought to one side.  White kid gloves and white satin sandals and a small ivory fan.  A white lace veil is occasionally thrown carelessly over the head and forms a drapery which is at once simple, elegant, and becoming.

I see that we have a nod to the Prince of Wales in this gown as we had to his wife in the last one. I wonder what one did if one did not have luxuriant ringlets. My hair never would hold a curl for more than an hour.

 In this same issue of La Belle Assemblee we are told that the weather has been of uncommon fineness, prolonging the summer fashions longer than they were recollected lasting for some years. Recall though that this was written for the September issue.

We can now look forward to more of our visit to Saltram and other houses, and November fashions.

Regency Events

Vauxhall Vittoria Fete

After I discovered the gowns named for the fete I thought it might be interesting to learn a bit about the event itself, and there was far more to know than I could possibly describe here. I just wish I had some pictures.
the Vittoria Fete was held in Vauxhall Gardens. This Grand Military Festival in honour of the Battle of Vittoria, won by the Marquis of Wellington (he became a duke later) on 21 June, was held under the chairmanship of the Duke of York, the commander-in-chief of the army.

A grand dinner of a thousand gentlemen at two guineas per head which began at nine in the evening. The Duke's royal party sat in a semi circle in the rotunda with gold plate displayed behind them along with a bust of Wellington, who was far too busy fighting the war to attend himself, the standard of the 100th French Regiment taken in the battle and the baton of Marshal Jourdan. Among the guests were, in addition to the Prince of Wales and members of the Royal family including the Royal Dukes, were the Prince of Orange, the Prince of Conde, the Dukes of Bourbon and Berri and the Duke of Brunswick.

After dinner there was a concert of vocal and instrumental music attended by some twelve thousand people, including the wives of those gentlemen.  Tickets to the event were sold at Carlton House and other venues and were quite expensive. All through the gardens, symbols of British victory and glory were displayed, such as the names of battles where the British had been victorious along with the names of victorious generals. Fireworks were let off displaying emblematic devices at intervals under the direction of Colonel Congreve. The party continued all night until daylight the next morning.

One young lady who attended spoke of the hours that she waited trying to approach the gardens by carriage. And having failed to do so because of the traffic, her party then took a ferry. She was most indignant that the waterman who handed her into the boat put a dirty fingerprints on her white gown. She also describes having her gown cut by a pickpocket and her hair falling in disarray about her face. They did go into the ballroom, but because of the crowds were unable to dance more than a quarter of a half a dance and went home thoroughly disgruntled.

In fact it was something we might well describe these days as a bun fight.  Certainly George Cruikshank was not impressed. He thought the money would have been better spent caring for the widows and orphans of the men who fell in battle. 

But many of those who attended thought it was a splendid recognition of Wellington's achievement, and certainly Britain needed something to celebrate after so long a war.

Until next time Happy Rambles

Regency Fashion ~ October 1813

The Battle of Vittoria was one of Wellington’s great victories and much celebrated on the home front in 1813. The Prince of Wales arranged for a grand fete to be held in Vauxhall Gardens. This took place in July 1813. However it seems that the modistas of the day decided to name ballroom gowns after the fact, so one can assume the celebrations continued.

This gown appeared in La Belle Assemblee’s September edition as fashion for October entitled

Vauxhall Vittoria Fete Dress.

It is described as follows:

A short dress of crape over a very slight white satin petticoat, made more scanty in the skirt than  we have seen them for some time. The skirt is ornamented round the bottom with a trimming composed of crape and small pearl beads in the form of laurel leaves, each of which is edged with those beautiful imitations of pearls and a row also goes up the middle of each leaf, which has a novel and very elegant effect.  Over this dress is a Princess Charlotte of Wales’ body of pink crape; for the front of this body we refer our readers to the Plate; the back is made uncommonly broad, and extremely low both behind and before.  The sleeves are crape over white satin, fancifully ornamented with beads to correspond with the trimming round the bottom. A similar, but much smaller, trimming goes round the bosom and back of the neck. A small white crape jacket finishes this dress. The hair cropped behind, and disposed in loose ringlets in front; a superb white lace veil falls from the back of the head and is taken carelessly on the arm as a drapery. A fancy half wreath is placed to the side. White kid gloves and slippers; emerald necklace, ear-rings and bracelets.

I find the reference to the Princess Charlotte of Wales body interesting. It looks a bit like a bustier doesn't it, and rather daring, don't you think?  It seems to be a gown that leaves very little to the imagination.
I will bring you the second gown a little later this month. Until next time, Happy Rambles.

Regency Houses ~ Saltram Bedrooms

It's always fun to peek into other people's bedrooms. Not that these rooms were always used as such, but that is how they are arranged at this point in time.

This one is fascinating because of the wallpaper.  It is silk painted with people hard at work growing curing and packing tea. It is a very expensive wallpaper from the eighteenth century
The bed is around 1760, the needle worked hagings are from earlier and the chairs are Chinese Chippendale style with pagoda-shaped cresting rails.

I must say, the new bed we have could use a set of these steps. Why is it we are going in for high beds again now?

The chimneypiece is mid-eighteenth century and carved with bears and bees.

There is more to see, so until next time, Happy Rambles.

Regency Houses ~ Saltram

                            

 Again the difference between upstairs and downstairs in this great house of Saltram. Here we have the North stairs the family would have used and those used by servants going up from the kitchens.





I wonder if the old adage about not passing on the stairs being unlucky might have come from some poor maid hustling down with a chamberpot bumping into some broad shouldered footman hurrying to answer a bell?







Until next time, Happy Rambles.

Regency Fashion ~ September 1813

I sometimes regret not wearing the long elegant fashions of yore. Like when I am sitting having a cup of tea.  Not much good for housework though.

These gowns were worn exactly 200 years ago. Plates and descriptions are from the August La Belle Assemblee with fashions for September

 
Morning or Walking Dress

High dress of jaconet muslin, made up to the throat, and laced behind in the slip style; waist nearly the same length as the preceding month; the bosom is cut on each side in three gores, in which a rich footing is let in; the middle gore is nearly half a quarter in length, the side ones are something shorter; they form the shape of the bosom, and have a pretty and novel effect.  Long sleeve let in all the way down with a narrow letting-in-lace at regular distances of rather better than a nail across the arm; the muslin between each letting-in is full; the edges of the sleeve, as also the throat of the dress, is finished with a narrow lace set on plain; the skirt is gored, and wider at the bottom than they have been worn; it is trimmed with a narrow flounce to correspond.  Over this dress our fair pedestrians wear a pelisse of the palest faun-colour sarsnet, the texture of which is remarkably slight but glossy; in the form of this pelisse there is nothing novel, but the trimming, which is composed of crape, is extremely tasteful and quite new; it is a crape rosette slightly spotted with floss silk, and the heart of the rosette is a very small floss silk button of the most elegant workmanship: this trimming goes entirely round the pelisse, which is, very appropriately to the season made without a collar.  Small cottage cap of faun-colour ribband; this bonnet is worn very much off the face to display a rich lace cap. Gloves, shoes, and parasol to correspond, the latter trimmed with white lace.


I see we are still at the seaside with this one. White cliffs of Dover perhaps?

Evening Gown

Frock of straw-colour crape, with a demi train; it is worn over a slight white satin petticoat; the back of this dress is very novel and elegant, the under-dress is laced behind, and the frock is open at the back so as to display the white satin underneath: it is finished at each side of the back by a row of rich lace, which also forms a shoulder-strap, from whence it goes across the front so as to form the shape of the bosom, which is done by the insertion of a piece of crape between a double row of lace. Waists as they were worn last month.  White lace sleeves made very full, and finished at the bottom with a rich white silk trimming.


 
The hair is twisted up behind à la Grecque, and a fancy wreath of flowers is put quite at the back of the head; part of the hind hair is braided and goes quite round the head, the front hair is disposed in full curls on the forehead. Pearl necklace, ear-rings, and bracelets. Plain ivory fan; white kid gloves, and slippers.

Well since I actually have this copy of the LBA and the descriptions and the plates are definitely supposed to match, your guess is as good as mine as to what happened to the pearls. And of course the hat totally covers the hair. Anyway I am sure you can get the general idea.

Until next time, Happy rambles.

Regency Life Saltram Below Stairs Part 3

Here we have some kitchen essentials. 

 This would have been used to strain meat juices.

 The cans at right are for hot water for a vareity of purposes, including carrying up stairs to the family for washing and bathing by chamber maids. Full up these cans weigh about thirteen kilograms, a heavy weight for a young lass of about thirteen.  Sigh. No doubt that would have been my job.

 Butter pats and a dish drying rack

Jelly moulds

Some of it seems very  familiar doesn't it.  Until next time, Happy Rambles

The Gilvry Series - Tying it up

If you are wondering at my absence, and I do hope you are, I had a deadline. The last book in the Gilvrys of Dunross Series was due mid-September.  This series has an overarching plot. A couple of  mysteries that build in each book.  One of those mysteries is, what happened to Drew, the 2nd oldest brother? And what happened to Drew ties up another mystery running through all four books.
This is the first time I have attempted keeping such a specific plot line, which is a mystery, going through several books. I learned some things.

• It is a hard thing to do if you don't actually plot
• Since each book has to stand alone as a complete romance, you cannot focus too much on the overarching story, therefore don't let it get too complex
• What you wrote in the first book can make it very hard to write the last book. It is very easy to paint yourself into a corner.

In other words, it is not for the faint of heart. It wouldn't have been quite so hard, I decided much too late to do anything about it, if the family had been working against a known enemy, but trying to carry a secret through several books and then reveal all at the end, was quite a mouthful to chew.

Yet... it is as good as done, I am happy to say. No doubt there will be revisions and tweaks, but it did tie up logically at the end, with a pretty nice bow, too, I thought. I enjoyed the challenge.

Next comes a sequel to the Haunted by the Earl's Touch, in case you wanted to know.

Falling for the Highland Rogue - Cover

Getting the cover of an upcoming book is always filled with excitement and trepidation.

At least for me.

This one is for my December 2013 book.  Falling for the Highland Rogue.

I am delighted, I must say. It captures the dark streets of Edinburgh where much of the plot takes place, and I have no doubt this is my whisky smuggler hero, Logan.

Of course, its too early to be telling you too much about the plot: the book won't be out for a good while yet. But getting a cover is always the first sign that the book is a reality, and no longer just a figment of my imagination.

I'll be posting more about the story in the coming months. In the meantime, enjoy the cover.

Until next time, Happy Rambles.

Saltram Below Stairs Part 2

Moving on to:
The Great Kitchen at Saltram was described in 1811 by the Lady Boringdon's brother as, immense & in the utmost order of neatness. The Borigdon's must have been very proud of this kitchen if they were showing their guests around. Or perhaps he was thinking of doing something new at his own house and was looking for ideas.

I have to say that I always have difficulty deciding what pictures to use. And how much is is too much. As always I have far more pictures that I have room for in a blog and have not wish to bore my reader. Here is the first of a selection that I thought gave a really good idea of this part of the house.

This one was built in 1779 and modernized in 1913.

This hearth incorporates an open range which dates from about 1810.  Very modern. As you can see, it has roasting spits driven by heat from the fire and a huge dripping pan to catch the fats. This would have been the centre of cooking during the regency. I must say I find it rather daunting, but I guess it depends what you are used to.

Something I loved about the Saltram kitchen was the large windows, all of which could be opened. The room was bright and airy, though I can imagine how hot it would have been too when cooking a meal for a dinner party on a summer evening.

This kitchen required a staff of ten to keep it running smoothly beneath the watchful eye of the cook, the housekeeper and the butler.

 The other thing that is always a classic in a kitchen of this size is the long central worktable.

If you are wondering about the black range in the middle of that table it is Victorian, and therefore ignored. At least by me.

Until next time, Happy Rambles.

Saltram Below Stairs

Ever since I wrote Lady of Shame, part of the Castonbury Park Series, a Regency upstairs downstairs, or Downton Abbey, I have loved visiting the kitchen areas. Not the least because my hero in that story was a French Chef. I had to smile at one of the reviews which was quite positive about the idea of a Regency hero with a real job.

I digress.
Here we are exploring what at Saltram is called the Wet Larder. Not because of the sinks, called salt tanks, but because this is where wet work is done.(Not the kind you see in the mob movies, but it was used  for raw meats. And nothing else.

Joints of meat to produced bacon, ham and joints of beef to make salt beef for boiling would have been brought here. If they were to be wet salted they would have been immersed in water, salt, saltpeter and coarse sugar. The same ingredient were used as a dry rub. Some meats, salt beef for example, was kept in the tanks or in the wooden barrel, other meats like ham or bacon were hung in the cool and the dry.


The ready the meats were stored in earthenware dished on the non absorbent slate table tops you can see in this picture. As you can see the window looks out on the courtyard we saw earlier



The scales were used to check that what was ordered had actually been delivered.

No space is wasted, this is a store cupboard under the stairs leading up to the bedrooms at the back of the house.

More on the Kitchens to come later, until then, Happy Rambles

Regency Fashions August 1817

 Oh its fashion time again.  I always love this bit.  Here are a couple of delightful summer frocks.
From the July 1817 La Belle Assemblee

Our first gown is advertized as a French fashion, and French was and is always considered tres chic

The official description is as follows:

Round dress of cambric, with two embroidered flounces, divided at about half a quarter of a yard, with rows of small tucks. Colerette body of fine cambric, ornamented round the bust and at the bottom of the waist to correspond with the border of the dress. Leghorn bonnet ornamented with puffings of pink satin. Lyonese shawl of grass-green with a narrow variegated border. Pink kid shoes, and Limerick gloves.

Puffings?  That made me chuckle. I was also smiling at the half a quarter of a yard.  Did she mean an eighth?  It is an interesting insight into language of the day. I quite like the bell shape of the skirt and the length is practical for walking, but not sure about the ruffle around the neck. But then my neck is not quite of the swan-variety. That green scarf is startling amid all the pale colours.



The second offering is English.

And classified as an Afternoon Dress. Just what I would be wearing to afternoon tea with the local lord of the manor, and lounging about in during a country house party.

The official Description goes as follows:

Round dress of fine plain India muslin, with triple flounces richly embroidered; the upper flounce finished with a bouillone run through with ribband of ethereal blue. Open spenser of ethereal blue sprigged satin, lined with white; the part that turns back and the falling collar elegantly finished with find blond; macherons of white satin surmount the sleeves, trimmed also with blond. Elphinstone cap of blue and white satin, with a plume of white feathers.

I have some more to share about August fashions later in the month. Some fun observations, but next time we have to move on with our tour of Saltram.
Until then, Happy rambles.

RWA 2013

My RWA conference started with the my Regency Chapter's mini conference.

The Chapter is called the Beau Monde and it is a
group of authors who write Regency Romances.

Each year, the day before the main conference, we get together to talk about research in our era and in the evening we dress up and learn to dance the way they did in Jane Austen's time. Umm ...  well sort of.  We have fun pretending anyway.

As you can see, some of us dress for the occasion. I didn't this year, because I was up for an award and had to attend another event at the same time the soiree got going.  While I didn't win the Bookseller's best this time, it was a great honour to be nominated.

I attended a great many RWA workshops and learned a great deal about the business side of writing in this changing publishing world as well as catching up with old friends and making new ones.

 This is me with my editor, Joanne Grant from Harlequin Mills and Boon, at the Beau Monde Soiree, and Michelle Willingham who also has Joanne as her editor.  Michelle writes about Vikings as well as the Regency.

Always a big hit for Harlequin authors is the annual party where we celebrate our successful year with our publisher.

The goodies were amazing especially the design your own cupcake bar and we all got to make little flip books as a souvenir of our

evening. A sort of flicker film. Fun.

If you are wondering what that is hanging on the wall behind me, that is the wall of socks. Everyone got a pair of pink wooly socks so we could kick of our shoes and dance the night away. 

  Everyone gets up to dance, even Nora.  And if you don't know who I mean, you are so not a Romance reader, vbg.

One of my favourite events is always the booksigning.

It was busy this year as I was giving out trading cards and albums and was thrilled to have so many readers of my books drop buy to say hello.  I also signed at the Harlequin signing event.

Oh and now its back to the real world of trying to get my ideas on the page, so you can enjoy my stories. 





Until next time, Happy Rambles

Saltram Part 8

 The kitchens always fascinate me, perhaps because I know that's likely where I would have ended up. Either that or as the wench that lights the fire before anyone gets up. 

No beautiful carpets here, stone flagstones are the order of the day.  You will also notice that the corridor to the kitchens flanks a courtyard and is separated from the house.

The food had to travel across this open area to the dining room.  The idea of course is to prevent the main house from catching fire as well as keep cooking odours contained where the inhabitants couldn't smell them.

This configuration was put in place after a fire destroyed the original kitchens in 1778. Lord Boringdon saw it as an opportunity to rationalize the domestic arrangements. He had the brew house and the laundry, which had been destroyed in the fire built as a separate block away from the house.


I do wonder how warm the food was after it travelled outside in the winter, but I expect they had food warmers in the dining room.  You can also see part of the orignial house here in this courtyard, and area likely never seen by guests and so not rendered like the frontages we saw earlier.

More to come on the working part of the house next time. Until then Happy Rambles.

Saltram Part 7

 Hope I am not boring you to death with all of these visits of mine.  I could spend hours wandering the lovely houses and I am so grateful to those who maintain them in such beautiful style.

These are the North Stairs, a quick retreat to upstairs from the dining room. They are not the main staircase, but very grand with an overhead skylight and support columns.

This hall also lead off to the heart of any house.  The kitchen.  Which will will visit next time.



Until then Happy rambles.

Her Highland Protector

In stores now, and online everywhere.

Lady Jenna Aleyne must marry well if she is to claim her lands…Only, there is a complete lack of eligible suitors in the Highlands! But then Niall Gilvry is assigned to watch over Jenna, and there's no denying she finds this handsome Scot most distracting!
Niall knows Jenna is too fine a lady for the likes of him—after all, high society has little time for a lowly third son—but he takes his duty seriously. With danger lurking in the shadows, Niall stays close. It would be just oh, so easy to pull her into his arms.…

Book Two in the Gilvrys of Dunross is fast paced, suspenseful and wildly romantic ~  Romantic Times  Check it out on Amazon.com.