Regency Fashion March 1817

From Ackermann’s Repository 

OPERA DRESS

            

A blue crape dress over a white satin slip; the dress trimmed round the skirt with a deep blond lace, which is headed with a light and novel trimming, composed of white floss silk and small pearl beads: this trimming is surmounted with a beautiful deep embroidery of lilies, surrounded by leaves. 

The body and sleeves of this dress, as our readers will perceive by our print, are extremely novel. Head-dress tocque a la Berri; it is a crown of a novel form, tastefully ornamented round the top with lilies to correspond with the trimming of the skirt, and a plume of white feathers, which droop over the face. 

Ear-rings, necklace, and bracelets, sapphire mixed with pearl. 

The hair dressed in loose light ringlets on the forehead, and disposed in full curls in the back of the neck. 

White kid gloves, and white satin slippers.

Regency Fashion for March 1817

Morning and Evening Gown from the Ladies Monthly Museum March 1817.

THE MORNING DRESS.

 Of coloured bombazine, made high in the neck, full cape composed of three rows of satin, the skirt trimmed with the same material; the sleeves long, closed at the wrist, and finished with three rows of satin trimming; the waist is worn very short, and bound with a sash of satin ribband; the skirt rather full, and of a moderate length.

A cap of satin, or lace trimmed with rich blond, and ornamented with bows of satin ribband in front, and at the crown of the head; round the throat a frill composed of rich blond lace.

 In higher circles, beautiful Leghorn bonnets, with lower crowns and deeper fronts, already form the leading shape, whether for the promenade, or dress visit.

 THE EVENING DRESS. Composed of white satin, worn low in front; round the bosom and shoulders a rich trimming of satin and lace; the skirt ornamented with five or six rows of rich blond lace; the waist very short, and to fall rather low from the shoulders; at the centre of the bosom a bow of satin; the sleeves short and full.

A turban composed of white satin, finished on one side with an ornament of satin and a couple of tassels; the hair full, and parted in front.

Pearl necklace, white kid gloves, and white satin shoes.

Regency Fashion March 1816

Carriage Dress From Ackermanns From March 1816

To me this looks like a cross between a graduation outfit and a carpet.

Here is the official Description

A high body of jaconot muslin, with a lace frill, over which is a low one, formed of pink silk and trimmed with the same material; the upper part of the trimming is tastefully ornamented with bows of pink ribbon. 

Long loose sleeve, finished down the arm with bands and bows, to correspond with the trimming of the train; it is drawn tight at the wrist, and ornamented with a large pink bow. 

A superb French shawl is thrown carelessly over the shoulders. 

The hair is dressed very much off the forehead, and low on each side of the face. 

Head-dress, the Polish cap, which is uncommonly novel and pretty; it is composed of black velvet and ornamented with a silk tassel and gold band. 

Necklace, ear-rings, and cross, composed of gold and pearl. French watch, set with pearls. White kid gloves, and black Levantine sandals.

Mrs. Gill, of Cork-street, Burlington Gardens, has favoured us with the original and 
elegantly fancied dresses given in our prints this month.

Until next time.....

Regency Fashion - the hush hush gown

Evening Dress, March 1817 the trimming of which is top secret---apparently....

From the March Ackermann's Repository 1816

EVENING DRESS.

WHITE satin slip trimmed with a deep flounce of blond lace, set on full and finished by a double heading.

The upper dress is a robe composed of striped French gauze, open in front: the waist is very short; and the body, which is made in a perfectly novel style, displays the contour of the shape to the utmost advantage.

For the form of the sleeve, which is peculiarly elegant, we refer our readers to the print; as we are also obliged to do for the beautiful trimming which goes round the robe: it is composed of novel materials, which we are not allowed to describe.

Hair dressed much off the forehead, and low at the sides. Head-dress Circassian turban composed of French gauze: the ends, which depend from each side, are so disposed as partly to shade the neck; they are extremely rich and beautiful.

The only ornament is a superb aigrette composed of pearls and rubies. This head-dress is well calculated for graceful and majestic belles, to whom it gives what the French term l’air imposant.

Necklace, earrings, bracelets, rubies intermixed with pearls. White satin slippers and white kid gloves.

................My excuses for the pallor of this plate.  I must say, the dress is pretty, both the robe and the petticoat beneath, but that the trimming is a secret, well curiosity killed the cat. I must visit this modiste immediately to see it for myself.


Until next time.

Regency Fashion ~ March 1815

 From Ackermann's for March 1815 we have this lovely gown and spencer described as follows:


MORNING DRESS.   
    A petticoat of fine jaconet muslin, ornamented at the feet with a flounce laid on, appliqued with borders of needle-work.

 French spencer, of striped muslin; long loose sleeve, confined at the wrist with a bracelet; high military collar—collar and fronts trimmed with lace; short sash of lilac sarsnet tied in front. 

A melon cap, composed of lace and lilac ribbon, confined in bows upon the crown.

 Half-boots or sandals, lilac kid. Gloves, Limerick or French kid.
   

 For the fashions for this month we are again indebted to the tasteful and elegant designs of Mrs. Bean of Albemarle-street.






I enjoyed the description of the hat as a melon cap, but for a change I quite like it. I would have liked the colour lilac to have showed more in the picture, but I imagine that the lacy ruffles made the gown seem very light and airy and feminine. I had a blouse something like the spencer that I used to wear under a jacket. It was one of my favourites.

Until next time

Regency Fashion - March 1816

Opera or Walking From La Belle Assemblee

The plate says opera, but the description says walking. I will let you decide, but I'm thinking, well its spring, let us walk to the opera.

Here is the official description:

Round dress of jaconet muslin, made high to the throat, and rather longer in the waist than last month. Long sleeves gauged about the wrists about an inch; the sleeve is left about two inches in length from the gauging, and is edged with a very fine narrow lace. The collar, which is made tight to the neck, is also edged with a lace to correspond. A very rich embroidery goes round the bottom of the dress. 

The Huntley bonnet and scarf, for which we refer our readers to the Plate, have a very elegant effect; they are composed of rich twilled plaid sarsnet; the scarf is three yards in length, it is a straight piece, and is disposed according to the taste of the wearer.

A beautiful Prince's plume ornaments the bonnet. Very pale tan slippers and gloves.

I like the dress, but not so much the plaid, but it would be good for walking.

Until next time

Regency Fashion March 1814

This is an evening dress designed to be worn during a period of mourning.

The description from La Belle Assemblee for March 1814 is as follows;

Half dress of French grey crape, over a white satin slip, which is slightly embroidered round the bottom with grey chenille. The half dress is sloped so as to be about a quarter of a yard longer behind than in front, and is richly embroidered in white silk round the bottom, which has a very elegant effect; the body a-la-chemise, is made with a little fullness, and drawn in to the waist by a white satin sash. 

An embroidery to correspond with the bottom goes round the bosom, which is cut very low, and the back of the neck. The sleeves are extremely tasteful; they are composed of grey crape on white satin, and are gauged at a distance of about two inches all down; each gauging is finished with a row of pearl, and two rows of pearl at about two inches distance finish the sleeve at bottom. 

Bonnet of French grey crape, turned up on one side and slouched on the other, ornamented with a very long white feather. White crape fan. Bracelets, necklace, and earrings of pearl. White kid gloves and shoes.

Until next time

Regency Fashion for March

by Ann Lethbridge

Hardly a day goes by without something going on these days. Here is the UK cover for Captured For The Captain's Pleasure.

I love that her gown is pure regency, and yep bare-chested guy is good for me too.

Indeed the gown could easily feature in one of these monthly articles. I wonder what they will do for the North American version. The differences for the book out this February, and coming across the pond in May are marked. It is like getting a large box with a ribbon around it. The anticipation is almost better than the gift.

Fashions

I wandered back through the blogs to see what we had done already and saw that this time last March, we were about to change our clocks. The first sign of spring.


As usual I find plates with both a gentleman and a lady of particular interest.

This one is from Le Beaumonde 1807

A MORNING WALKING DRESS, for Gentlemen is composed of a dark brown superfine cloth great coat, ends of the collar in the front cut into a heart; dark blue under coat only visible in front; toillinette waistcoat blue striped with a white and yellow ground, fawn coloured pantaloons, and half boots.

The description says it all and the cane is an interesting accessory. You can see where there half boots come on the calf by looking closely.

Our Lady is equally fine.

AN ELEGANT WALKING DRESS, a straw gypsy hat, tied down with a white silk or a rich half lace handkerchief; a muslin gown, ornamented with knotted work crossing the shoulder to correspond with the bottom of the dress. The body is made quite plain to draw round the bosom, and fulled in the back to imitate the frock waist, with a light yellow sarsnet or camel hair scarf, richly drapered at the ends with various colours; the scarf is worn so that the dress may be exposed, tastefully tied with a careless knot in front. Lilac gloves and half boots made of kid, a beautiful white down muff, adds much to the elegance and splendour of this much admired Walking Spring Dress.

We have see the muff many times before. This one is huge and looks exceedingly soft.

Our next picture is of a less cheerful not and comes from right at the end of the regency period.


A mourning gown from La Belle Assemblee for 1820.


This is labeled

Carriage Costume

Round dress of black crape over black satin with five fluted flowers of crape at the border. Spencer of black velvet, with the sleeves and bust ornamented in a most novel and beautiful style. Black velvet bonnet, with superb plume of cypress feathers. English antique triple ruff of white crape, black chamois slippers, and black chamois gloves.

It of course shows the fashion at this time for the wider heavier hemline. But also of interest is the use of chamois. We more often see kid for shoes and gloves. I assume by English antique, they are talking Tudor for the ruff. I agree that the ornamention is quite novel.

The rest of the article goes on to talk about mourning fashions. There has been much mourning among royalty during this period, and King George died January 29, 1820, throwing the nobility back into mourning for their King.

As the splendor of an unclouded sky will sometimes cheer the dark reign of Winter so Taste and Elegance will dart their bright beams even though the sable mantle of mourning, and the cloud of universal and unfeigned regret. We fancied but little could be said on the subject of fashion at a time like this; for in her diversified attire it is generally proved that
“Motley’s the only wear.”
As we walked through the tasteful shew-room of Mrs. Bell, we found our admiration continually arrested as we stopped before the retired cornette and bonnet, the sable plumed head-dress of majestic woe, the deep and unstudied weeds for those who, at the first awful period of Court mourning, mark by their costume their sorrowing ideas that Britannia sits like a widow, while the lighter white crape turban peeps through the gloom and indicates the white and halcyon days she hopes to witness in the reign of his present most gracious Majesty.
The most appropriate out-door costume for the first weeks of mourning, is a pelisse of black rosadimoi; a silk which is infinitely deeper than bombazin, and is worn only by widows in the very first stage of their weeds; it is also often appropriated to the fabrication of clergymen’s Court robes; the material, however, of the pelisse is entirely new; and forms a truly classical and unique costume for the present sad occasion. The rich rosadimoi is figured; it is thereby not only rendered lighter in appearance, but also it marks a distinction between the very deep mourning for the nearest and dearest of all individual connections, and that which should be adopted for the sire of the people. The pelisse is trimmed with crape in rich quillings; and with it should be worn a bonnet of puckered crape, ornamented with a full cluster of the blossoms of the mournful nightshade, without foliage and formed of black crape.
Black satin hats, with battlement edges, are much worn in carriages; they are ornamented with full plumes of feathers; the most elegant hat we have seen, but we must remark that it will only suit a lovely face, is the chapeau a la-Comtesse; it is somewhat in the Mary Stuart style, and is crowned by a superb plume of feathers; the hat itself is of black velvet. A large dishabille bonnet of the same material is well adopted to the promenade; it has a small curtain of black lace at the edge and is ornamented with two small dropping cypress feathers.
Little has been yet prepared for full dress, but the elegancies of half dress, the most becoming costume to almost every female, are so various at the Magazin de Modes we have above cited, that it is really more than our limits will allow us to record at present. We cannot, however, leave undescribed a most elegant and appropriate mourning dress of fine bombazine, handsomely ornamented round the border en carresux; each square finished with double crape a-la-veuvage, and the doublings headed by crape beadings: the dress is made high and is finished round the waist by an Arcadian jacket frill of crape, terminated by narrow crape puffings: the mancherons at the top of the long sleeves are trimmed to correspond with the frill.
Cornettes for the breakfast table are made of fine India muslin; the border, which consists of full quilling, has a very broad hem on each side; and the only ornament is a small bow of white love on the left side. For elderly ladies the cornette-a-la matrons is much admired, in the present close state of mourning; it is entirely of white crape, and the broad border with large plaits gives it an air of retired sorrow; these cornettes are well adapted for the very early period of widowhood; they are truly becoming and quite as mournful as the widow’s cap of the old school, and which diminishes the charms even of a very pretty face.
Amongst the head-dresses for evening parties, we beg leave first to introduce par excellance, the regal coronet turban of black velvet, surmounted by a superb chivalry plume of numerous small black feathers; this is one of the most tasteful head-dresses we have seen for some time. The private concert turban is also well adapted to musical parties, being light and without plumage; it is of black satin and crape, ornamented with real jet; a dress hat of crape and black satin ornamented with drooping cypress feathers, is much in estimation for dinner parties.
White crape and white love are equally expressive of mourning as black; the young, and the beauty whose complexion is dark, and which is by no means rendered fairer by the approximation of black next the face, have been already seen in turbans made entirely of white crape, slightly trimmed with white bugles; while those of equivocal complexions, to whom also black is not a favourable head-dress, do well to wear a white crape turban, entwined with black beads, and crowned with black flowers or feathers.
Black is not a colour wherein to tread the mazes of sportive dance; we hope, therefore, when our balls begin, that white or grey crape will be adopted for dresses, with the trimmings only of black; and as young ladies now wear nothing more than a bandeau of jet and bugles to adorn their beautiful tresses, such mourning, we think, will be sufficient; and not seeming to

“Bear about the mockery of woe
To midnight dances.”

On that note, I will bid you happy rambles.

Regency Fashion For March

First, many apologies for the typos in that last blog. Jet lag has strange effects. I have done some fixing. Hopefully today will be better as we move into our regular article. Though we put our clocks forward this morning, so yet another time warp.


This evening gown in from the Ackerman's Repository and is dated March 1819. I do not have a description from the time, but I thought it interesting because of the musical instrument and the rather nice view of the cushioned stool on which she is seated. Odd how some things catch one's eye.

We are well past the classical style with this gown. The high waist is there, but the fabric is not the flimsy drapery of earlier in the era, it is some sort of striped satin and the bell, or A line, of the skirt is very pronounced. The heavy trim (Rouleau) around the hem is typical of this period.

La Belle Assemblee, March 1807


Here you see for comparison the style from March 1807. The cloak is described as a Polish Robe, and indeed has a rather eastern European feel to the fur lined edging and of course the hat. The tassles on both the robe and the Evening gown are quite lovely. It also reminds us that Britain can be quite cool still in March, even if the trees are starting to get their leaves and the daffodils are budding.

The Evening Gown is quite lovely and of course shows the classical lines of the earlier period to perfection. I really like the way the dotted shawl crosses over at the front and then drapes off one shoulder.

There is also a row of buttons running down the skirt front, just off to one side which is quite unusual.

Well that's it for fashion for March. Until next time, Happy Rambles.

Regency Fashion For March

What were they wearing in March during the Regency? Well As usual, I have a couple of treats for you.
I did want to tell you about my exciting news - if you haven't heard already. No Regrets was nominated by Foreword Magazine for the Book of the Year Award. Now we have to wait for the result, but just being nominated is an honor.

Now to our March Fashions, my favorite part of the month, with thanks and acknoledgements to Moonstone Research and Publications. See the link in the sidebar. This bit of elegance is a morning dress or a carriage dress from 1811. It is quite lovely, in my opinion. And very suitable for the blustery winds of March.

LA Belle Assemblee describes it as follows:

"A bias corded muslin dress, a walking length, with long sleeves, made high in the neck, with collar; buttoned down the front of the waist with narrow lilac satin ribband. Sash tied in a bow in front; a border of plain muslin, or lace, round the bottom. A square of lilac satin, with richly embroidered border in white silk, and tassels to correspond, is thrown over the shoulders in the form of a shawl, and is cut down the back to give it a more easy and graceful appearance about the figure. A simple white chip hat, tied round the crown in a bow in front of lilac satin ribband. The hair in full curls over the forehead. Pearl earrings. Gloves and shoes of pale lemon, or lilac coloured kid."




These next two are from the Ladies Monthly Museum. A morning gown and an evening gown as you can see. Very ornate, already losing the classic drapery of the fashions above, they show heavy trim around the hem. The lacy overdress on the evening gown is beautiful, with a lace edging and the wavy hem trimmed with tassles is a lovely effect for the underskirt.

The crown of roses for the evening gown must have made this young lady walk with great trepidation. It would be like having a book on your head I should think. Worse than any up-do we suffer through these days.


This last is from 1810 La Belle Assemblee. To me these almost look like two versions of the same gown using different fabrics.

Evening Full Dress.
A white satin round dress, with half yard train, laced up the back and seams with gold twist, ornamented round the neck with a full twill of frosted stain or white crape, and down the front and at the wrist with gold braiding, and small drop buttons. It is made to sit high on the neck; cut to a point in the centre of the bosom and back: a gold band encircles the waist. A white satin Emsdorf helmet trimmed with gold, ornamented with two white craped ostrich feathers. White satin shoes embroidered with gold; white kid gloves; gold necklace and ear-rings; cornelian brooch. The hair dressed in ringlets on each side of the face, with a long Theresa curl falling over the left shoulder.


Second Evening Dress
An India muslin train over a white satin petticoat. A bodice of green velvet, ornamented at the seams with gold braiding, and trimmed round the neck with a twill of green crape or velvet. A Spanish cap, with green craped ostrich feathers.


Personally, I am not keen on the Emsdorf helmet, but is apparently fashioned after the helmet worn by the 15th light dragoons who defeated the French at Emsdorf in 1760. So I assume it had a patriotic attraction.

Well that's it for my rambling today. Hope to see you next time.

Regency Fashion March

Well I only managed one post last week, blame it on jet lag. Hopefully things are back to normal and I can get back on my normal schedule. There is just so much I want to do. Fashions and houses and update my website. I am working on a newsletter and I also want to add more links to this blog. When I changed to the new format I lost some of my neat links and I really want to put them back. But... I am just finishing up my next novel. I have done a huge edit on the manuscript and am about to enter them in the computer. I tell you, when I get writing, I just cannot drag my self away.

But 'ere we go (as the earwig said as he went over the cliff)~~Fashions

As it turns it turns out I have oodles of fashions for March.
Here we have 1804
March 1804 Fashions reprinted from the 1804 Lady’s Monthly Museum.

1. The dress to the left is described in the Ladies Monthly Museum as "A short round Dress of White Muslin, with a Pelisse of Purple Velvet. A straw hat, ornamented with a Pink Wreath. Feathers to match the Pelisse. Bear Muff. Purple shoes."
As you can see, the hem is much shorter for this walking dress than those called full dress, to the right, which would have been worn at home, rather than dragging around the filthy streets. And look at the size of that Muff. I have a pair of purple shoes.

2. A Cap of French Velvet and lace Ornaments, with Roses in front. A Dress of Plain or sprigged Muslin. Sleeves trimmed with lace. Fashionable shawl. Buff Gloves. Fan.
I always loved it when Georgette Heyer talked about "sprigged muslin". It sounds so romantic.In this picture of course they show the plain muslin.
3. A Mameluke Turban of White Satin; White Ostrich Feather, with Gold Ornaments. A Tunick of Pink crape, trimmed with white Lace, and White Tassels. White Muslin petticoat. Pink shoes.
Don't you wonder who wrote this stuff? Look at the crazy spelling of tunic. Or is it us?

I found this from The Ladies Monthly Museum 1807 quite intriguing. It really is all about the hats!
Fig. 1. Mantle of fawn coloured Kersimere, trimmed with white velvet; Bonnet of Velvet, ornamented with black.
Fig. 2. Pelisse of puce coloured Silk, trimmed round the neck and down the front with white lace; Bonnet same colour as Pelisse.
Fig. 3. Dress of fine Muslin; Sleeves of white Sattin; Sash tied in front; Cap of white Sattin, with small Feathers.
Fig. 4. Train of pink Silk; Lace let in the back; full top Sleeves of white Crape; Turban of pink and white Crape , with Ostrich Feathers.
Fig. 5. Robe of Primrose Crape, trimmed down the front and round the breast with white Lace; Sleeves striped alternately with sarsnet and lace; white sarsnet Petticoat; Kid Gloves.



Moving on to 1809, this dress is from Ackerman's Repository.
The collar is very high. Here is how they described it in the magazine. ". A Polish cap, and pelisse of silver grey cloth, trimmed with gold or silver, buttoned down the front with small round buttons, a high collar, with a lace ruff; boots of same colour as the pelisse, and both embroidered with gold or silver. York tan gloves.
This dress was transmitted to a lady of high rank from Warsaw, and would alone evince the taste and elegance of the ladies of that country, were they not already sufficiently known." They often used York tan gloves, and they always color them yellow in the pictures.



1815 Elegance Again from Ackerman's
"Pelisse of short walking length, made of evening-primrose coloured velvet, ornamented down the front with satin trimming; round capes, trimmed to correspond; full lace ruff. A French bonnet, composed of white velvet and satin in reverse plaitings, trimmed round the edge with a quilting of lace; full plume of ostrich feathers in the front. Half-boots of tan-coloured kid. Gloves, Limerick or York tan."
When I read evening primrose, I expected yellow. I really must take a look and see just what an evening primrose is!

Our last picture is from 1818, and if you look across the fourteen years you get a good impression of the evolution of fashion.

Note the bell-like hem and the heavy trim around the skirt of the gown. And what about those stripes. They remind me of the deckchairs we used to rent on Brighton Beach as children. Isn't he a cute little dog?

Well, that is March. I have put up a few more on my website for you to take a peak.
Happy Rambles, see you on Thursday!