Fashion Friday

Ackermann's for May 1817

EVENING DRESS.
A WHITE lace dress over a blush coloured satin slip. The dress is disposed round the bottom of the skirt in festoons, which display a little of the slip; each festoon is ornamented with a bouquet of blue-bells, pinks and rose-buds. The festoons are surmounted by a rollio of intermingled pink and white satin. 

 We refer to our print for the form of the body, which is novel and tasteful. The sleeve is very short and full; it is finished at the bottom by quillings of blond. 

 The hair is dressed in a plain braid across the face, and a few loose ringlets at the sides. The hind hair forms a tuft, which is concealed by the head-dress, a high wreath of fancy flowers. 

 Pearl necklace. White kid slippers and gloves.

This reminds me of a little girl's party dress.  The headdress makes her look top heavy. You won't catch my heroines wearing that!

Regency Fashion

April 1817

Walking Dress from Ackermann's Repository



       Muslin high dress, made at walking length; the skirt trimmed with a deep double flounce of muslin, poteted  round the edge, and worked in a light running pattern: the heading corresponds.

 Over this dress is a spencer of blush-coloured figured sarsnet, made very short in the waist; the body is plain at top, but has a little fullness at the bottom of the waist. For the form of the front, which is tastefully ornamented with frogs, we refer our readers to our print. A small standing collar supports a double frill of lace round the throat. Plain long sleeves, finished at the wrist by frogs. 

 Bonnet a la Flore, composed of satin to correspond with the spencer. The form of this bonnet is new and extremely pretty; the crown is oval, rather low, plain at the top, and full in the middle. The front, which is very deep is edged with an intermixture of blond and white silk cord. It is finished by pink strings, and a bunch of exotics in front. 

 White kid gloves. Blush-coloured kid slippers.

I really like this one, the hem is lovely, though I am not quite so keen the collar. What do you think?



Fashion April 1817

PARISIENNE BALL DRESS From Ackerman's Repository April 1817


A FROCK of white tulle over a white satin slip: the upper part of the body is formed of a piece of tulle set in full, the lower part plain, and ornamented by three rolls of white satin, which form a cestus. 

 The sleeve, very short and full, is ornamented also by rolls, which are placed byas across the arm, and finished in the middle by a bow of ribbon. Two bows of ribbon are placed, one on the middle, the other at the end of the shoulder-strap, in front. 

 The bottom of the skirt is trimmed with three rolls of white satin, above which are placed bows of ribbon at regular distances, and they are surmounted by a triple row of rolls. 

 An apron of tulle, trimmed with point blond, gives an elegant finish to this dress: it is much wider at the bottom than the top, and is sufficiently short to display the trimming of the dress. 

 The hair is dressed very light and low on the temples in front, and the hind hair braided and brought round the crown of the head. It is ornamented only with a band and bow of white satin. 

 White satin slippers.  White kid gloves, finished by bows of ribbon at the top.

Interesting detail added by the apron. I don't think I have see one like this before.  I think it is quite pretty.

Regency Fashion March 1817




From Ackermann’s Repository 

OPERA DRESS
            
A blue crape dress over a white satin slip; the dress trimmed round the skirt with a deep blond lace, which is headed with a light and novel trimming, composed of white floss silk and small pearl beads: this trimming is surmounted with a beautiful deep embroidery of lilies, surrounded by leaves. 

The body and sleeves of this dress, as our readers will perceive by our print, are extremely novel. Head-dress tocque a la Berri; it is a crown of a novel form, tastefully ornamented round the top with lilies to correspond with the trimming of the skirt, and a plume of white feathers, which droop over the face. 

Ear-rings, necklace, and bracelets, sapphire mixed with pearl. 

The hair dressed in loose light ringlets on the forehead, and disposed in full curls in the back of the neck. 

White kid gloves, and white satin slippers.


Regency Fashion for March 1817


Morning and Evening Gown from the Ladies Monthly Museum March 1817.



THE MORNING DRESS.

 Of coloured bombazine, made high in the neck, full cape composed of three rows of satin, the skirt trimmed with the same material; the sleeves long, closed at the wrist, and finished with three rows of satin trimming; the waist is worn very short, and bound with a sash of satin ribband; the skirt rather full, and of a moderate length.

A cap of satin, or lace trimmed with rich blond, and ornamented with bows of satin ribband in front, and at the crown of the head; round the throat a frill composed of rich blond lace.

 In higher circles, beautiful Leghorn bonnets, with lower crowns and deeper fronts, already form the leading shape, whether for the promenade, or dress visit.

 THE EVENING DRESS. Composed of white satin, worn low in front; round the bosom and shoulders a rich trimming of satin and lace; the skirt ornamented with five or six rows of rich blond lace; the waist very short, and to fall rather low from the shoulders; at the centre of the bosom a bow of satin; the sleeves short and full.

A turban composed of white satin, finished on one side with an ornament of satin and a couple of tassels; the hair full, and parted in front.

Pearl necklace, white kid gloves, and white satin shoes.


Fashion for February 1817



From the The Ladies Monthly Museum For February 1817

THE EVENING DRESS

Is made of a beautiful coloured sarsnet, worn over a white satin slip; the waist very short, and low in the bust; the sleeves short and full, falling much over the shoulders and low in the back, above which is worn a frill of blond lace; round the waist is a sash of satin ribband, fastened in a bow in front.

The skirt of this beautiful dress is ornamented with a deep trimming of net, and rows of coloured satin, which produces a light and beautiful effect, particularly in the ball-room.

The hair is parted in front, and falls on each side in soft ringlets, and the head surmounted with a plume of white feathers. White kid gloves, and white satin shoes. We can recommend this dress to our fair readers who are in the bloom of youth, as a most becoming and fascinating acquisition of its kind.

WALKING DRESS.

A round dress of cambric muslin, the body of the gown made high, long sleeves, the skirt finishing with a Vandyke flounce. Pelisse of rich scarlet silk-velvet, worn high in the neck, and finishing with a puckered cape of satin and velvet; the waist short, and bound with a silk cord, and tassel; the sleeve is made full at the shoulder, and finishes at the wrist with a trimming of satin and silk cord; the skirt is made full, and of a moderate walking length, lined with white satin, and finished with a rich trimming of spotted vandyked ermine.

Close French bonnet, ornamented with a plume of feathers, and trimmed with satin ribband, corresponding with the pelisse, lined with white satin. With this dress is worn a muff, to suit with the trimming of the pelisse.

I hope you enjoy these peek at fashion from 200 years ago and invite you to visit my website at http://www.annlethbridge.com.  Sign up there for my news letter.

Coming soon from Ann Lethbridge   An Innocent Maid for the Duke  
FROM Harlequin Historicals 
Book Two in a 4 Book Miniseries,
The Society of Wicked Gentlemen  

Extract* 


To Rose, the sensation of being held remained a novel experience. Few people in her life had put their arms around her as far as she recalled. And only this man had ever embraced her with such gentle care. His touch seemed to reach into her very soul. And the way his kisses made her feel was heaven on earth.

A heaven she hadn’t known existed, or that it could be shared with another. Her body trembled and yearned and her heart seemed to want to pound itself free of her chest. She twined her arms around his neck, for support and because she wanted to touch him, too. The feel of his silky hair against her fingers was enchanting and wicked.


Fashion for February 1817

Evening Gown February 1817  Ackermann's Repository

The dress
Is composed of white crape over white satin. The body, which is a mixture of satin and crape, is perfectly novel, and extremely becoming to the shape; it is confined to the waist by white satin, fastened in front by a ruby clasp. 

 The sleeve is long, and we refer for its form to our print. The skirt is trimmed with crape draperies, elegantly ornamented with bunches of roses. These draperies are surmounted by three rows of rich white fancy silk trimming. 

 The hair, which is much parted on the forehead, is dressed very low at the sides, and the hind hair brought to a very moderate height. A wreath of roses, intermingled with exotics, is placed very far back on the head. 

 White kid gloves, and white spotted silk slippers. Necklace, ear-rings, chain, &c are composed of various coloured stones. A transparent silk shawl is thrown carelessly over the shoulders, in such a manner as to form a very elegant drapery.

 Coming soon from Ann Lethbridge   An Innocent Maid for the Duke  
FROM Harlequin Historicals 
Book Two in a 4 Book Miniseries,
The Society of Wicked Gentlemen  

 Extract* 
To Rose, the sensation of being held remained a novel experience. Few people in her life had put their arms around her as far as she recalled. And only this man had ever embraced her with such gentle care. His touch seemed to reach into her very soul. And the way his kisses made her feel was heaven on earth.

A heaven she hadn’t known existed, or that it could be shared with another. Her body trembled and yearned and her heart seemed to want to pound itself free of her chest. She twined her arms around his neck, for support and because she wanted to touch him, too. The feel of his silky hair against her fingers was enchanting and wicked.

All rights reserved.

Regency Fashion - January 1817

                     Full Dress - Ackermann's Respository for January 1817.



A WHITE soft satin slip, tastefully ornamented at bottom with a flounce of broad blond lace, and a light roll of white satin, surmounted by a wreath of lilies composed of plain blond, and a second roll of satin. The stalks of the lilies are formed of white silk cord, and a row of the same, disposed in waves, is placed above the roll of satin. Nothing can be more beautiful than this trimming. 

 The gown, composed of spotted British net, is an open robe, with a short train, which meets in front, but slopes gradually off towards the bottom, so as to display the trimming of the slip. The robe is ornamented with a flounce of blond lace to correspond with the slip, and a wreath of intermingled lilies and roses. 

 We refer our readers to our print for the body of the dress, which is tasteful and very novel. The sleeve is short and very full; a single flounce of blond is so disposed as to form an uncommonly pretty half-sleeve. 

 The hair is brought up in a high tuft behind, and the front hair combed back on each side so as to display the forehead; a part of it is disposed in loose ringlets, which fall carelessly over the ears, which they partly shade. The hair is ornamented by a single lily, placed in a  bunch of fern. 

 Necklace, ear-rings, bracelets, and armlets of ruby intermixed with pearl. 

 White kid gloves, and white satin slippers. Plain small ivory fan.—We have been favoured by a correspondent in Paris with a model of this dress, which has just been made for the Duchess de Berri. 

This is one of those gowns that make me adore the Regency.  What about you?

Coming soon from Ann Lethbridge

An Innocent Maid for the Duke

"A petite woman in a glittering red mask was singing to herself, her scarlet gown swirling around her shapely ankles as she twirled in front of the mirrors, each one giving a different reflection of a gown moulded to every curve of a sinuously lush body moving in time to her humming. The smile on her parted lips was not the forced smile of a courtesan, nor that of a jaded widow, or yet the hopeful smile of a debutante anxious to please a duke. This smile was pure delight. Enjoyment.
Her joy at the simple act of dancing spilled over with an infectious feeling of lightness that unaccountably lifted his spirits. He found his own lips curving upwards in response. Even more surprising, he found himself wanting to be the one to waltz her around the room."

 copyright Michele Ann Young


Regency Fashion January 1817


Here is something that sounds new at least.  The Witzchoura, originally from Poland, is a mantle or cloak, with wide sleeves and a huge collar.


From the Lady’s Monthly Museum Mirror of Fashion

The English Witzchoura

 Is the greatest novelty and most useful appendage to dress for the present season that can be conceived: it protects the wearer from the inclemency of the weather, preserves the dress worn under from being rumpled, and forms a most elegant exterior covering, either for riding, walking or evening parties.

 Its make is quite novel; of which our print conveys a perfect idea. It is composed of a superfine lilac and white mixture cloth, lined with silk. A lady’s chapeau bras is attached to the Witzchoura, made of the same material, and lined with silk, in a very novel manner.

The cornet cap is composed of blond lace and scarlet silk velvet, ornamented with flowers, producing a most rich and beautiful effect. Suitable gloves, boots, and shoes, are worn, as may be required.

 Evening Dress.

 Is made of a beautiful Paisley gauze, richly trimmed with white fur, and black cording all round the fur, so as to give a half-mourning appearance to the dress; which is of a moderate length, so as to shew a part of the instep; the sleeves are rather full, so as to give them a rich effect, falling gracefully over the shoulders, and somewhat exposing the bust and back. 

 White kid gloves, and white satin shoes.

 I shall enjoy using this word in my books.  Until next time


Secrets of the Marriage Bed

Out now  
After one night of passion, the dissolute Duke of Dunstan made Julia his wife, but their honeymoon is far from blissful. Alistair trusts no one with his shameful secret, and that means keeping his tempting new bride at a distance… 
Julia longs for Alistair to yield to the powerful desire between them. But when the dark secrets of the marriage bed threaten their future, this new couple must overcome the past and surrender to their wildest passions to find a new, oh-so-delicious beginning together!

 Find out more at my website.




HAPPY NEW YEAR MAY 2017 BE HEALTHY AND FULL OF JOY!!!!!!!

Regency Fashion - December 1816

Interesting, but a little bland for my taste.  What do you think?

Carriage Dress, 1816 Ackermann's

The description is as follows:

A gown of pale faun-colour cloth, made a walking length, and trimmed round the bottom with four rows of rich blue silk trimming. The body, which is cut very low, is ornamented in such a manner as to have a novel appearance, with a similar trimming, but very narrow. 

 The back, which  is cut down on each side, is finished at the bottom of the waist by bows and long ends, trimmed to correspond. 

 A very tasteful half sleeve over a plain long sleeve, made tight at the wrist, and bound with blue trimming; it is finished by a narrow ruffle composed of three falls of tulle; fichu of tulle, with a ruff to correspond. 

 When worn as a carriage dress, the head-dress is a bonnet, the crown composed of white satin at top, and the middle and front of Leghorn; it is lined with white satin, and ornamented only by a white satin band and strings. 

 An India shawl is also indispensable to it as a carriage dress, for which hit is elegantly appropriate. Shoes and gloves of pale faun colour.

 Our dresses this month are both French; but, as our readers will perceive from our prints, they are in the best style of Parisian costume. We have been favoured with them by a lady who has just returned from Paris.





Now I thought Leghorn was a style, here it is used to describe a material. 

Until Next Time...............

Regency Fashion

December 1816
Promenade Dress
'Tis the Season.

The richness of this gown in the December Ackermann's makes me think of Christmas and warmth.

Here is the description:

A HIGH  dress of cambric muslin trimmed at the bottom with a single flounce of work. 

 The body, which is composed entirely of work, fits the shape without any fullness. A plain long sleeve, finished by a triple fall of narrow lace. 

 Over this dress is worn the Angouleme pelisse, composed of crimson velvet, lined with white sarsnet, and trimmed with a single welt of crimson satin, a shade lighter than the pelisse. 

 The body is made exactly to the shape; the back is of course a moderate breadth, and without fullness: for the form of the front we refer our readers to our print; it is confined at the waist, which is very short, by a narrow velvet band, edged to correspond. A small collar, of a novel and pretty shape, stands up and supports a rich lace ruff, which is worn open in front of the throat. 

 The sleeve has very little fullness, and that little is confined at the wrist by three narrow bands of puckered satin. 

 Bonnet a la Royale, composed of white satin very tastefully intermixed with a large bunch of fancy flowers, and tied under the chin by a white satin ribbon, which is brought in a bow to the left side; a full quilling of tulle finishes the front. 

 Black silk ridicule, exquisitely worked in imitation of the ends of an India shawl, and trimmed with black silk fringe. White kid gloves and black walking shoes.

I was intrigued by the ridicule, because of it's embroidery (described as work) and as you know that is my "thing". We see little of the dress itself, just a peek through the opening in the pelisse.

Until next time.....

Hall Place in Kent

Hall Place is perhaps one of the most unusual places we have been in search of the Regency. It is situated in Bexley in Kent.  During the time I grew up theren the house was not open to the public, but it was a well-known local land mark.

Hall place dates back to before Henry VIII's reformation and around that time fell into the hands of one of London's Lord Mayors, Sir John Champney a self-made man who died of the plague in 1556.

This is a view of the Tudor courtyard built for Champney with its stunning pattern of grey and white stone.  A mark of his wealth and importance. Originally it would have had only one large oriel window looking into the courtyard, as all the other windows also would have done.

Over time, the house was added to and altered by succeeding owners and in 1772, the era in which we are interested it passed into the hands of Sir Francis Dashwood, later Baron Le Despenser.  Apparently there really were Dashwoods around in Jane Austen's time.

The red brick extension, with its two wings and front facing outwards now, was added to what would have been the back of  Tudor buildings as seen here. The extension formed a central enclosed courtyard between the new front and the old tudor great hall, and provided a corridor between the wings.

A view along the side shows where the new was added to the old.  I must say I found it rather odd from this angle, but I cannot contain my respect for those who decided to keep the old Tudor part in tact.



A bell tower was added within the new courtyard with a fashionable prospect room at the top for watching the hunt and for entertaining.  What and interesting looking tower it is.  The rectangular windows follow the ascending stairs to form an unusual asymmetric pattern.  The courtyard at this time would have been the hub of the household. Water was fetched from the pump and arrivals and departures would be observed from the upstairs windows. The archways around the courtyard lead to the new architectural development --- corridors.  It enabled privacy, one room no longer leading directly into the next

At the time Sir Francis inherited the property it was rented out to a Richard Calvert Esquire and then to the Reverend Richard Jeffreys in 1798 who set it up as a School for young gentlemen. And so it remained until the 1860's.

What a wonderful place for boys to go to school. At the time there were coach houses, stables, outhouses, office buildings, boat yards, orchard gardens, shrubberies, a pleasure ground and appurtenances thereto.

What a great setting for a story.


Hall Place today is a mix of original Tudor, Commonwealth and Restoration.

Next time will will take a peek around the interior.  Until then.....




I

Fashion for November 1816


The weather is cooling down but the fashions are hotting up.

What could be more Regency than this striped gown?

From Ackermann's November 1816

Evening Dress

 A lilac and white striped gauze dress over a white satin slip; the bottom of the skirt is ornamented with five rows of white silk trimming of a very light and elegant description: it has just been introduced, and the pattern has more novelty than any thing we have seen for some time: a single flounce of deep blond lace completes the trimming. 

 The body is also very novel; the upper part is formed of lace, and the lower of gauze, to correspond with the dress: the latter is quite tight to the shape, but the former has an easy fullness, which forms the shape in a manner extremely advantageous to the figure. 

 The sleeve is short and very full; it is composed of lace, looped high, and finished by a trimming to correspond with that on the skirt. 

 The hair is full dressed, without any ornament. 

 Ann LethbridgeNecklace, cross, armlets and bracelets of rubies. White satin slippers, and white kid gloves.

I like this gown, very pretty and flattering.  Get out your rubies, ladies!

Don't forget to order your copy of Secrets of the Marriage Bed in on-line stores everywhere.  Go to my website for links

What woman doesn't need to know a few secrets?


Fawkham in Kent

Fawkham Green in Kent or Fawkham is not likely a place you have ever heard of.  Indeed, in 17 97 it was described thusly:

 THIS PARISH is a lonely unfrequented place, and contains about one thousand acres of land, of which about two hundred and fifty are wood, having no public high road through it. It lies on high ground, among the hills; the soil is much inclined to chalk, and is very slinty and barren, but though it is poor, yet this, as well as the neighbouring parishes in a like situation, is in some measure recompensed by being exceedingly healthy. There are two hamlets in it called Fawkham-green and Fawkham-street. The church stands near the northern boundary of it. The seat of Pennis is situated in the middle of the parish, adjoining to a large wood, which extends quite across it.

For all that, or perhaps because of it, the Duke of Norfolk built a country home here in 1806.  Now the Brands Hatch hotel, it is a beautiful Georgian Manor and a lovely place to stay.  The red brick mansion comes into view at the end of a tree-lined drive and visitors may enjoy twelve acres of surround gardens and parklandm

I have to admit it is not as quiet as it would have been in the Duke of Norfolk's day as one can easily hear the sound of engines buzzing from the nearby racetrack.  But the grounds are quite lovely, the room elegantly appointed and the dining excellent.




More enticing yet were the glimpses of the Regency still visible inside and outside.

This staircase for example, and the exterior above.

If you like to stay where history meets modern conveniences, this might well be the place for you.

Join me next time as I delve deeper into Kent,

Until then.......

What Did They Wear in November 1816?

Two hundred years ago the fashion looked like this.

Morning Gown, November 1816, Ackermann's
     
A ROUND dress, composed of cambric; the skirt is finished at bottom by four rows of rich embroidery and two flounces of work;  it is very full; and the body, which is a chemisette, has also considerable fullness thrown behind. 

 The body is made up to the throat, and trimmed at the neck with a double frill of rich work: it is made very full behind, but plain in front. 

 A long loose sleeve, finished at the wrist by three puffings and a single fall of narrow work. 

 Head-dress a morning cornette, composed of fine clear muslin, with a border to correspond. The form of this cornette is uncommonly novel and striking; the crown is ornamented, something in the style of a turban, with rolls of muslin, and finished at the top by a bow of straw-coloured ribbon. 

 Gloves and sandals of straw colour. 

 A new pattern silk handkerchief thrown carelessly over the shoulder, completes the dress.

 Cornettes apparently continued to be the head dress of choice in this year.  I love the hem line, with all the layers of lace.  I assume the carelessly thrown handkerchief not only serves as decoration, but assists in parrot poop clean up.  I think this is the first time I have seen a pirate parrot on one of these plates.


Until next time.........