Regency Fashion

December 1813

The second offering for December, is quite glamerous IMHO

It is named a Kutusoff Mantle

Kutusoff was a Russian Prince and a great general for his country who died earlier in 1813.

The mantle is described as follows;

Pink or scarlet cloth mantle, trimmed with a broad velvet ribband to correspond, a spenser of the same materials, on sleeve of which is concealed by the folds of the mantle; the collar, which is high and puckered, fastens at the throat with a broach; and a long lappel [sic], which ends in a point, falls considerably over the left shoulder.  A Kutusoff hat of pink or scarlet cloth, turned up in front, with a little corner to the right side, ties under the chin, and is finished with aa pink or scarlet feather; a full puffing of lace or net is seen underneath. Plain cambric high dress, and pink or scarlet leather half boots.  Its effect upon a tall and graceful figure is amazingly striking and it is for the carriage costume, decidedly the most elegant cloak that we have seen for some seasons back, and does the greatest credit to the tasteful fancy of its inventress, Miss Powell, successor to Mrs Franklin, Piccadilly.

And so we are offered a couple of interesting tidbits, in particular, the name and location of one of the seamstresses to the ton  in addition to what I agree is a stunning ensemble.

Until next time, Happy Rambles.

Regency Fashion

December 1813

It wouldn't be fair to let a month go by, without a peek at the fashions since I was fortunate enough to purchase La Belle Assemblee for 1813, I have been posting pictures from exactly 200 years ago.

Our Fashionista has this to say in general terms:

The winter has now completely set in, and our elegantes cannot, as formerly, be charged with a want of sufficient clothing: no bare elbows or thin muslin dresses are now seen in the out-door costume; on the contrary, our very fashionable belles are apt to run into an opposite extreme, and we have observed some winter habiliments which would be very suitable to the Russian climate. 

A bit of sarcasm, perhaps?

This gown is an Opera Pelisse.

Described as follows:


Made of the richest orange or amber twilled sarsnet, lined with ermine, the collar, cape and cuffs are also of ermine.  In the form of this dress there is nothing peculiarly novel, but its general effect is strikingly elegant and highly appropriate to the season.  The waist is very short, and the sleeves not quite so loose as they have been worn. Small turn-up hat of the same materials as the pelisse, superbly ornamented with white ostrich feathers and tied under the chin with a ribband to correspond. White kid shoes and gloves.

We have another December fashion plate to share next time. Until then, Happy Rambles

Regency Fashion ~ November 1813

Two gowns are pictured together for this month.

The Morning Dress is described as follows:

 round dress, of jacconet muslin made up to the throat and buttoned down the back, which is still broader than they were worn last month; the waist is also a little, but it is a very little shorter than they were then. Long sleeve, which falls much off the shoulder; it is very large and loose and fastens tightly at the wrists by a letting in of lace; the sleeve descends almost to the fingers and is edged with lace The trimming of this dress is extremely elegant a very broad flounce of the same materials as the dress, is surmounted by a richly embroidery in coloured silks, and a sligh border, the pattern a wave, goes round it at bottom.  Treble ruff of pointed lace.  Hair cropped behind, and dressed in loose full curls in front.  Ear-rings of dead gold in shape of a heart; they are very small.  Slippers of slate-coloured kid made much higher round the instep than they have been worn for some time, and trimmed with a ribband to correspond.

The Dinner Dress is a frock of Devonshire brown crape, made to display the back, bosom, and shoulders as much as possible.  This exquisitely simple and becoming dress leaves us little to describe: in the form of the frock there is nothing new, but the trimming, which is of white satin is very novel and tasteful.  It is laid on in folds, which are separated into small compartments by strings of real pearls. The sleeve, which is of white satin corresponds with the flounce.  Hair partly twisted up behind, partly descending in loose ringlets on the back of the neck; the forehead shaded by a few loose and beautiful ringlets; a wreath of half-blown roses is put on rather to one side, and the whole air of the head is as youthful as possible. Pearl necklace, earrings and bracelets. White kid slippers with silver rosettes. A rich scarf of lemon colour shot with lilac is occasionally thrown over the shoulders; and a ridicule with silver clasps and tassels, finishes the dress.

We often have questions about the fastenings of gowns. Laces or buttons. The morning gown is buttoned down the back, so there we have it at least for this particular year.   I can't say I'm a fan of brown for a dinner dress, or of the novel trimming, but I was interested to see that it is shown as above the ankle.

Until next time

Regency Fashion ~ October 1813

This is the second gown for October, and also a Vauxhall Vittoria Fete Dress.

I can only assume that these were dresses which where worn or ordered for the event, but of course only available in the magazine after the fact. Sadly we do not know who it was who wore the dress.

This second gown is not so very different from the first, which you would have found in my post earlier this month.  It is described as follows:

A plain white lace frock over a white sarsnet petticoat; the sleeve, which is halfway down the arm, is also composed of lace, and the form of it is extremely novel.  The top is very full and drawn in by a string of pearls, the bottom part is composed of three rows of narrow letting-in, each row edged with pearl. Hair curled in loose and luxuriant ringlets in front, turned up behind a-la-Grecque as tightly as possible. Head-dress, diamonds and the Prince's plume of ostrich feathers. Diamond necklace, bracelets and ear-rings. A slight gold chain of elegant workmanship, to which an eye-glass is suspended, is put round the neck and brought to one side.  White kid gloves and white satin sandals and a small ivory fan.  A white lace veil is occasionally thrown carelessly over the head and forms a drapery which is at once simple, elegant, and becoming.

I see that we have a nod to the Prince of Wales in this gown as we had to his wife in the last one. I wonder what one did if one did not have luxuriant ringlets. My hair never would hold a curl for more than an hour.

 In this same issue of La Belle Assemblee we are told that the weather has been of uncommon fineness, prolonging the summer fashions longer than they were recollected lasting for some years. Recall though that this was written for the September issue.

We can now look forward to more of our visit to Saltram and other houses, and November fashions.

Regency Fashion ~ October 1813

The Battle of Vittoria was one of Wellington’s great victories and much celebrated on the home front in 1813. The Prince of Wales arranged for a grand fete to be held in Vauxhall Gardens. This took place in July 1813. However it seems that the modistas of the day decided to name ballroom gowns after the fact, so one can assume the celebrations continued.

This gown appeared in La Belle Assemblee’s September edition as fashion for October entitled

Vauxhall Vittoria Fete Dress.

It is described as follows:

A short dress of crape over a very slight white satin petticoat, made more scanty in the skirt than  we have seen them for some time. The skirt is ornamented round the bottom with a trimming composed of crape and small pearl beads in the form of laurel leaves, each of which is edged with those beautiful imitations of pearls and a row also goes up the middle of each leaf, which has a novel and very elegant effect.  Over this dress is a Princess Charlotte of Wales’ body of pink crape; for the front of this body we refer our readers to the Plate; the back is made uncommonly broad, and extremely low both behind and before.  The sleeves are crape over white satin, fancifully ornamented with beads to correspond with the trimming round the bottom. A similar, but much smaller, trimming goes round the bosom and back of the neck. A small white crape jacket finishes this dress. The hair cropped behind, and disposed in loose ringlets in front; a superb white lace veil falls from the back of the head and is taken carelessly on the arm as a drapery. A fancy half wreath is placed to the side. White kid gloves and slippers; emerald necklace, ear-rings and bracelets.

I find the reference to the Princess Charlotte of Wales body interesting. It looks a bit like a bustier doesn't it, and rather daring, don't you think?  It seems to be a gown that leaves very little to the imagination.
I will bring you the second gown a little later this month. Until next time, Happy Rambles.

Regency Fashion ~ September 1813

I sometimes regret not wearing the long elegant fashions of yore. Like when I am sitting having a cup of tea.  Not much good for housework though.

These gowns were worn exactly 200 years ago. Plates and descriptions are from the August La Belle Assemblee with fashions for September

 
Morning or Walking Dress

High dress of jaconet muslin, made up to the throat, and laced behind in the slip style; waist nearly the same length as the preceding month; the bosom is cut on each side in three gores, in which a rich footing is let in; the middle gore is nearly half a quarter in length, the side ones are something shorter; they form the shape of the bosom, and have a pretty and novel effect.  Long sleeve let in all the way down with a narrow letting-in-lace at regular distances of rather better than a nail across the arm; the muslin between each letting-in is full; the edges of the sleeve, as also the throat of the dress, is finished with a narrow lace set on plain; the skirt is gored, and wider at the bottom than they have been worn; it is trimmed with a narrow flounce to correspond.  Over this dress our fair pedestrians wear a pelisse of the palest faun-colour sarsnet, the texture of which is remarkably slight but glossy; in the form of this pelisse there is nothing novel, but the trimming, which is composed of crape, is extremely tasteful and quite new; it is a crape rosette slightly spotted with floss silk, and the heart of the rosette is a very small floss silk button of the most elegant workmanship: this trimming goes entirely round the pelisse, which is, very appropriately to the season made without a collar.  Small cottage cap of faun-colour ribband; this bonnet is worn very much off the face to display a rich lace cap. Gloves, shoes, and parasol to correspond, the latter trimmed with white lace.


I see we are still at the seaside with this one. White cliffs of Dover perhaps?

Evening Gown

Frock of straw-colour crape, with a demi train; it is worn over a slight white satin petticoat; the back of this dress is very novel and elegant, the under-dress is laced behind, and the frock is open at the back so as to display the white satin underneath: it is finished at each side of the back by a row of rich lace, which also forms a shoulder-strap, from whence it goes across the front so as to form the shape of the bosom, which is done by the insertion of a piece of crape between a double row of lace. Waists as they were worn last month.  White lace sleeves made very full, and finished at the bottom with a rich white silk trimming.


 
The hair is twisted up behind à la Grecque, and a fancy wreath of flowers is put quite at the back of the head; part of the hind hair is braided and goes quite round the head, the front hair is disposed in full curls on the forehead. Pearl necklace, ear-rings, and bracelets. Plain ivory fan; white kid gloves, and slippers.

Well since I actually have this copy of the LBA and the descriptions and the plates are definitely supposed to match, your guess is as good as mine as to what happened to the pearls. And of course the hat totally covers the hair. Anyway I am sure you can get the general idea.

Until next time, Happy rambles.